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This is what you might call a food critic’s dream article. Just pick 10 favorite restaurants in Kansas City. As a devoted eater and sometime restaurant critic, this should be, as they say, a piece of [very good coconut] cake [from Jasper’s on State Line or Sweet Siam in Lenexa]. So I hastily riff my favorites . . . and end up with 23 restaurants without much thinking. How to slash?
I must be brutal.
I’ll start at the top. To me, the American Restaurant has it all: A beautiful setting designed years ago, but still looks modern. An unparalleled view. Impeccable service. Imaginative food by award-winning executive chef Debbie Gold. Expert wine knowledge dispensed especially from G.M. Jamie Jamison. Gorgeous, spectacular desserts from pastry chef Nick Wesemann. The American has added a happy hour, hoping to overcome its old reputation as an expensive special-occasion-only place. It’s no more expensive than any of my “top” restaurants and it makes every dinner an occasion. [Crown Center, 816.545.8001]
Four other restaurants are in the same fine-dining [pricey] category that must be included. Bluestem
in Westport is a creative take on American cuisine that is consistently done extremely well. Whether it’s happy hour, dinner, or brunch, their special flair and talent is unmistakable. Even the cheese plate is outstanding. Chefs and spouses Colby and Megan Garrelts oversee the cozy 14-table restaurant, which has won awards
and accolades. If nothing else, you could buy their new cookbook, cleverly named bluestem the cookbook. [Westport, 816.561.1101]
Michael Smith has created a stir wherever he’s gone. His impressive credentials include studying under several famous chefs and cooking at, for instance, Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, along with earning the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Midwest, which he won when he was co-starring at the American. He founded his restaurant, Michael Smith, in 2007 and it’s been winning awards ever since. You cannot go wrong here. And if you like really different and avant-garde food, try his Extra Virgin next door. [Crossroads, 816.842.2202]
The furthest south of these, Story, 10 minutes from the Country Club Plaza, is new, trend-setting, and very delicious. The owner-chef, Thorne Thomsen, who learned under Michael Smith’s tutelage, serves up seasonal American food with a nice twist or two. His fish dishes are especially good. Pretty desserts. And I love the fact that on Sunday nights, he has a $10 entrée and $10 bottle of wine. [Prairie Village shopping center, 913.236.9955]
Now, I must fall back on my favorite answer to my favorite question, “What’s your favorite restaurant?” Answer: “It depends.” Depends on what you’re looking for.
When it comes to steaks, many in Kansas City do steaks well. After several years, however, I’ve settled on one place, The Capital Grille. Not local, but I cannot ignore the quality of the meat, perfectly cooked, nicely served. I don’t know if all 35 or so locations nationwide are as good, but I assume so. And this just isn’t the Stoli Doley and calamari talking. Try the coconut pie. Or their lobster mac. And, oh, that ribeye. [Plaza, 816.531.8345]
For barbecue, I go to the gas-station-turned-eatery Oklahoma Joe’s, one of their two locations. The ribs do what they should: They melt. The sandwiches are scrumptious and big enough for two. The half-chicken is succulent. What more could any meat eater want? Just be prepared to wait if you go on Saturdays—the lines get very long. Even then, it’s worth it. [If you want ton-
ier, go to one of four Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue
locations.] [Joe’s, Mission Road in Kansas, 913.722.3366; Jack Stack, Plaza and Freighthouse district, 816.472.7427]
For Italian, I most enjoy Lidia’s, even though I resisted for quite some time: “New York City!” we exclaimed with adulation. A beautifully remodeled old railroad house north of Union Station, Lidia’s always meets my high expectations. But this choice wasn’t easy, given the challenges from Jasper’s in south Kansas City and the secret fondness I have for the spidini, short ribs, and Sinatra singing just to me at Garozzo’s in the Columbus Park area since 1989. What to do, what to do?
[Lidia’s Freight House, 816.221.3722; Jasper’s 816.941.6600; Garozzo’s, Columbus Park 816.221.2455].
For casual, very good, atmospheric, I love PotPie, right next to bluestem. A blackboard menu, a tiny
kitchen, small bar with great tenders, a locals’ favorite; mine, too. [Westport, 816.561.2702]
For Mexican, despite my love of cruisin’ down Southwest Boulevard and throwing a dart [hard to do from a car], I am really fond of Frieda’s Contemporary Mexican now at 7200 121st Street. Their chile en nogada gives me a taste of heaven in a green pepper. On the way home from the airport, I love to stop at Ixtapa in its little strip mall and ask the owner what to order—he’s never led me astray. Much further south, new entry Mestizo is worming its way into my heart. [Frieda’s, 913.897.0606; Ixtapa across from Zona Rosa, 816.746.4848; Mestizo, Park Place, 913.752.9025]
Ouch. That really did hurt. Then there’s JJ’s near the Plaza, GREAT food and wine list, Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange, Aixois newly duplicated in Downtown, Le Fou Frog, Café Sebastian, Grand Street, the Bristol, the Latin Bistro in Gladstone, North, Julian, J. Alexander’s and J. Gilbert’s [both in Kansas] and several others. So many restaurants, so few words. And so much for that dream article!
