Smokin' in the City Market
for more than 30 Years
by Chris Becicka
photograph by v. craig sands
Addie Winslow (center) is
joined by son David Winslow and
daughter Amy Winslow Fennesy.
A Historic Joint
If you're a long-time Kansas City resident, you've watched what's now called the River Market area go through a number of transitions. A scraggly produce area set amidst industrial surroundings. A Saturday-only market mostly for midtowners. A hip, a go-go "alternative" happening sort of place - the notorious "River Quay" - with bars and movies and restaurants and music and "Girls, Girls, Girls." And then, alas, a bombed out zombie-hood. Then, a slow reemergence into its present, more vital neighborhood with residences of all kinds, shopping all week, art and furniture galleries, entertainment and more.
Winslow's City Market Barbecue has seen, and withstood, it all. Beginning in 1971 as the City Market Barbecue, its name was changed when Don Winslow, Sr., purchased it after both his sons, Don Jr. and Dave, had spent their high school years working there for the founders John and Mary Margaret Mulvihill. Dave now owns it. Sister Amy Winslow Fennesy works there every day. Mom Addie presides as family matriarch responsible for the flowers, the customers, and a number of their signature sauces, including both the original and a Kansas City favorite, the River Quay Red Sauce. That sauce and the others on the counter are more than tasty. My portly companion came patting his tummy and was not disappointed. He got the famous smoky burnt ends sandwich, big or biggest, which comes in a sauce and looks like a chunky sloppy Joe. It comes with two sides, so the traditional beans (smoky tasting and full of tiny bits of beef) and the even better fries were heaped on his plate.
I tried the ribs plate for $7.95 and got four huge beef ribs and some good cold slaw and more nutritious mixed wild rice. However, I was forced to eat as many of my friend's fries as he would let me - because I loved the crunchy coating.
Dave Winslow likes to point out that KC is a beef town, and their ribs are bigger and meatier than most other places. My sample proved his point. We took home some of their well-known and very peppery-spiced chicken wings which are an acquired taste. On the way out, we saw a guy with at least three dozen piled on a huge plate in front of him. His companion just rolled her eyes at us and grinned resignedly. There are also several items on the board for the heretical non-meat eater. The place, appropriately enough, looks like a barbecue "joint," as Amy calls it, but a clean one with a sense of humor. You stand in line, which moves quickly, get your own drinks, unless you're in the cozy bar, and take your food to one of the tables decoupaged with family and historic KC photos or the new, funky cow-patterned booths or outside on their 300 seat patio watching the City Market in motion. There's a big cowhide on the wall, donated by one of the friendly employees and a mixed crowd as befits such a joint. Live music (and never a cover charge) on the weekends plus a blues jam on Sunday afternoons keeps the place hopping.
May and June are big months for Winslow's. May is National Barbecue Month, which certainly should be a major celebration for Kansas City. At a City Council meeting in April, Mayor Barnes proclaimed May 3rd as Winslow's City Market Barbecue Day in "honor of the Winslow family's hard work and their dedication to the City Market, and for producing some of the best barbecue, which is unique to Kansas City." And all through June, they'll celebrate their 30th Anniversary with entertainment and prices rolled back to 1971, including a luncheon special at $2.99, a medium sandwich and two sides for $3.99, and a regular sandwich for $1.99.
The food is good. The joint is historic. And you just never see enough decoupage anymore.