Trust in the Name
by Chris Becicka
In addition to his soft-spoken approachability and humility, this award winning chef has an understanding of what it takes to be successful. His restaurant is the first in Kansas City to be called by its chef’s name—a relatively common practice in big cities. Smith says he was nervous about that naming strategy, but his investors convinced him of its wisdom, and he’s says he’s become comfortable with the decision.
Smith says Kansas City’s palate has improved the last ten years. “We’re beginning to recognize that the best food is not cheap,” he explains. “We like multi-cultural influences, and we want good food and drink.”
We agree. We had walked in to eat at the bar before, but with early (5 p.m.!) dining room reservations (no, there are no early bird specials; our timing was the result of tardy reservation - making), four of us had the place to ourselves for an hour. Two hours later, our discerning friends summed up their dining experience by stating that they’d never had a better meal in Kansas City. Never.
Smith told me later that this is the result of excellent sourcing and his determination to find only the best ingredients—even if the result still seems expensive by KC standards. Our dining party tried, and shared, numerous dishes that proved him right. This is not a place with abundant salads (consequently less guilt) but the soup special, lobster bisque, was creamy and lobster-rich. The beef short rib “lasagna” was an excellent combination of mascarpone, spinach and carbonara sauce with tender noodles and melting short rib shreds. The fat scallops were crispy on top and bottom and melting inside on a crunchy contrast of apples and cauliflower, almonds and crispy “lomo”, a dry-cured pork loin ham.
Selected from eight entrees that included chicken, barramundi (of three fishes), and even wild boar chops, our final choices included a pan roasted duck breast with walnut spaetzel, butternut squash, and a little apple-endive slaw. The duck’s very peppery skin was not mentioned in the menu description and thus was a surprise to Martha, who then opted for hubby Rick’s steelhead trout which was sautéed crisp and came with potato ‘sheets’ which were light and delicious. The eight hour pork roast was another big hit—its natural juices completing its rich flavor, accompanied by perfect green onion risotto, and a largish dab of pico de gallo.
Desserts were equally sumptuous; we passed around three of the richest—bread pudding, lemon crepes and a chocolate concoction – all of which were fabulous. The wine list, too, is worthy—with old-fashioned black and white family photos sharing space with extensive offerings. Smith says that his $20 wine list had been popular at 40 Sardines—his former restaurant—but that people in Midtown seem willing to be more adventurous and accommodating of pricier wines, so he no longer offers the $20 list. He does offer a bar menu, happy hour during the week, seven champagnes and a caviar selection.
Smith’s talents go beyond this particular restaurant; he’s the consultant for menu development at Spin! Neapolitan Pizza, a casual restaurant in Overland Park and Lee’s Summit, and coming soon to Leawood and Briarcliff. His new tapas restaurant—named Extra Virgin—will open next door to his current spot in May. But he says mostly he just cooks, works his business, and goes home.
Michael Smith is a faily ordinary name, but his food and his talent are anything but.
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