Timeless
by Gigi Cowell
No longer is the acquisition of a gold watch the result of 30 years of loyal service at a single company, given by the boss at a retirement dinner.

There is a growing cadre of young professionals—
especially MBA, law and medical school grads—choosing
to mark their achievements with especially high-end timepieces.
These new buyers are well-informed and savvy
consumers, looking for the ultimate “statement piece.”
In 2007, the Luxury Institute, a New York research organization
that surveys the wealthiest consumers in the United
States, conducted a poll of the top ultra luxury watchmakers.
The Luxury Brand Status Index (LBSI) is established
by rankings which are based on quality, exclusivity, social
status and self-enhancement. Respondents were comprised
of consumers with a minimum net worth of $5 million—
those considered to be the ultimate connoisseurs of luxury.
Surprisingly, two companies with high name-recognition,
Rolex and Cartier, did not take the top awards.
The number one honor went to IWC, the International
Watch Company, founded by an American engineer from
Boston. IWC has been dedicated to engineering and mechanical
perfection in timepieces since 1868. The company
manufactures watches exclusively for men, and its Grande
Complication model consists of 659 micro components,
making it one of the most intricate mechanical timepieces
in the world. Limited in production to only 50 per year,
this symbol of prestige is crafted in platinum with a black
crocodile leather strap—and retails for $300,000.
Franck Muller took this award in 2006 for the Crazy
Hours watch, a model that places the hour hand in
an eccentric—and somewhat confusing order. A relative
newcomer in fine timepieces, Franck Muller opened
the company which bears his name in 1992. Designer
of some of the most complicated watches in the world,
Franck Muller was awarded “The Most Prestigious Watch
Brand in America” in 2006. The Cintrée Curvex design
has somewhat of a cult following, and features classic
curved lines mixed with a little whimsy. Retailing at approximately
$20,000, the Colour Dreams collection is
emblazoned with bold colors such as fuchsia, lime
green and cobalt blue.
Patek Philippe came in second in the 2007 LBSI, and was
honored for its Calatrava ‘Travel Time’ watch, a precision
mechanism that is offered in yellow, rose or white gold and
platinum with a sapphire crystal case back. Manufactured
in Geneva since 1839, Patek Philippe’s Swiss precision timepieces
are some of the preeminent symbols of performance
and prestige. Produced in a limited quantity of only 244,
their Perpetual Calendar with the red “dot” dial can be
purchased “pre-owned” from a Beverly Hills discounter for
a mere $290,000.
Kevin Gabriel, Director of Marketing for Tivol in Kansas
City, states that demand is still high for traditional names
in luxury Rolex, Cartier, and the increasingly popular sport
line of TAG Heuer are Tivol’s three top sellers. Panerai, the
company that merged Italian designs with true Swiss
watch making, is becoming the “timepiece for people in the
know,” states Kevin, “Panerai keeps the supply low, which
produces high demand—and another level of exclusivity.”
Citing job promotions and special occasions as popular
reasons for high-end watch purchases, he believes there
is a new generation of “under 40” professionals that are
looking for something more. “Buyers are looking for quality
pieces that will not only express their lifestyle and status, but
could eventually become heirlooms as well,” notes Kevin.
More than just a timekeeping device, a fine timepiece
represents the sophistication, style, and sometimes the
accomplishments of its owner. And more than just a part
of your arm, your wrist might just become the new place
to display your trophies.
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