word of mouth
by chris becicka

New Heights for Skies

Food for the eyes. Outside and now in.

That’s Skies. High atop (well, 42 floors up) the Hyatt, it’s always been the best view in town. The city lies before you in all directions. It’s a great place to take out-of-towners, but recent renovations to the look and food make it a great place to go just for a good time.

For years, we’ve thought about going to Skies for a drink, but seldom for a meal. We’ve ended up choosing another. Overpriced and not all that good, we sniffed. But the promise of a newly redone interior, a good thunderstorm (which didn’t materialize), and an improved menu sent us up the elevator. We were delighted we made the climb.

The renovation is lovely. Gone are the gray carpet, the deadening dark gray walls, the partitions that eliminated larger parties. A luminous wood floor, light wood tables with a dark edge, comfy but spare chairs, cream textured wallpaper with restful abstracts—it’s an airy, comfortable feeling, upscale casual and modern.

The look extended to the dinnerware—big funnel-shaped glasses for water and wine, cubist salt and pepper shakers, squared-off plates. And no tablecloth! And speaking of wine, as I always do, what an interesting collection of mostly inexpensive and middle-range wines. By the glass, there are 23 from $5.50 to $8.00, while bottles number 45 ranging from $25 to $65 with nearly a third of them in the $20s. A surprise in a hotel restaurant.

The menu reflects the new mentality. A crab-cake appetizer was one of the best I’ve had – big lumps sitting on a fresh tomato salsa and avocados—the warm crab and cool underpinnings complemented each other. The creamy spinach dip was not over-spinached and stringy like many; its abundant pepper jack cheese made it creamilicious with red pepper bits, artichokes, onions, and a slight tang. I could hardly get my portly friend to share with me, even though he was sure this was not on his diet.

He made up for it by ordering what I always fear in winter—tomato slices and mozzarella. But this Insalata Caprese’s tomatoes somehow had flavor, and the four juicy slices were big enough to share. The basil vinaigrette (made with 25-year-old balsamic vinegar) wasn’t plentiful enough for me—its sweetness was startling at first taste and then addicting. All four salads and soups were an even five bucks.

Next, of course, the entrees. There are eight, plus specials from $23 (the vegetarian pasta) to $29 (ubiquitous KC strip and filet). The typical gamut is covered—besides beef, there’s chicken, seafood, and pasta. Or a combo.

The salmon roll with rock shrimp and penne was scrumptious—the Pernod sauce added a hint of licorice to the perfectly done penne. The rack of lamb, a special that night, was not as tender as my companion would have liked, but its wine reduction sauce was rich and satisfying. We noted that you could add a lobster tail to any meal for $14—but didn’t.

Too full, we were forced to ignore the five special coffees and three cappuccinos. Worse, no room for dessert, either. And that, I’m sure, is a real pity. Each of four offerings is $5, and our neighbors were eating the justifiably famous Skies High Pie—about eight inches of chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry ice cream coated in white chocolate mousse and drizzled with caramel, chocolate, and fresh berry sauces. They wouldn’t share.

Next time. And there will be one—especially for the appetizers, the desserts, the comfortable bar that has the same great view. And I’ll come when I want to just have a good meal, a good time, or to celebrate a bit – Skies is worth its own trip for all us in-town folk!